Indochina calling…

The Hanoi morn was brite and sunny but heavy, the moisture laden air  perceptible  ,as it’s first day of June , the trip to Indochina taking off with Archana, Doel and Arnav all vacating Mumbai after exams and the opportunity well grabbed …

The City ride , the Water puppet show, theVIETNAMESE coffee with  local cookies  was the  right  recipe for  an  unwind, on Day2morn.

This trip  wud conclude  our tryst  with South East Asia since 2017...as the  bucket  list  is all ticked off ....

The Na Boi international airport of Hanoi had serpentine  Q s in the immigration desks  but surprisingly fast disposal .... as we were picked  up  by  Elegant  Suites cab and thus began our  Hanoi trip ...what was striking : was a clean city , took 30 mts  to  the  fabled  old  quarters ....the Hoan Kiem Lake  side  , Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum , a plethora  of Govt & Party offices  dotted  with   cafes and Govt  offices  with  The Red  & Yellow starred flag of Vietnam ....

Vietnam I visited thru Kolkata dailies while meticlously following  the  War  in the  seventies ...I a primary school student ...the words Hanoi , Saigon , Ho Chi Minh, VietCong & VietMinh all so very familiar during  that  period ...generated  immense  interest since  then  ..

Now having had to step on this soil was an inevitable  come tru ....So there  were Goosebumps  as  our Taxi slid  past  the  monuments  ,  the  people  relaxing  on  the  lawns  and  whoosh passing  in Honda  bikes  on  the  street  ..."Finally  made  it"   was  the feel!!!

Doel  was  equally excited  as  it tallied  with  her  history  discourses  in  her past Male'academics, as a child ,a huge fan of Lenin, now witnessing  the edifices of Vietnamese Communism ...

strolling  after  a coffee  brk  just  before  the  start  of  the  Water  puppet  show , I entered Sinh Travels  where an experienced  Senior lady  formulated  our  Day  3  plan to  Ninh Binh  &  Day 4  plan  to Halong  bay  as due  to paucity  of time  in Male' couldn't  quite  plan  it out  earlier ...the  package  in Luxury Bus transfer  was attractive  and I lost  no time  in  booking  as  time  was short for  a  12  day  comprehensive itinerary North to South Vietnam along  the Reunification Railway  line route  was jam packed : with  cities  ,  towns  to be visited  ,  hence  lost  no  time  as  Hanoi  was a 4  nite stay...having  recovered after  the Journey  of  Day 1 @  Elegant suites  which  provided ample space  and  great facilities ....Communication issues  were  sorted  by Google translator & people were  more  than willing to help as we  visited LP Bank for  currency swap ...there was definitely an air of helpfulness towards  the foreigner ...this  fortified  my  feelings  further  towards  S E asia for definitely the Countries  which we visited  Thailand  , Indonesia , Malaysia  , Cambodia  , Far East Japan  ,  China and now Vietnam as populous  places  but  orderly ...Having risen  like  the Phoenix  after  the  decimating war  of  the seventies  Vietnam is  fast up  the  ladder  in terms  of  development  ....The Mekong  has shaped Indochina  4900Km , cascading  from the Tibetan plateau and  nourishing multiple  countries  of the region ....the  paddy  fields  are  endless  , so are the Rice terraces  in  the  region and a source  of Economic development  for many a country  of the region ....Mekong Delta  near Saigon the culmination  of the labour  of the Great River...not  to spk  of  Mekong  but  countless  rivers  irrigating  the  catchment area ....River  and  her  Civilization ...as Ninh  Binh  was visited :  Tam Coc  River  , Limestone  Karst topography  , limestone caves , breathtaking escape  into  these in Sampan boat tour , amidst  lushgreen paddies,      & Hoa Lu complex  of  an ancient Capital  of  a dynasty & the  establishment of  the  Viet Kingdom , all in  Ninh Binh 10 th Century CE , the  lotus  laden  ponds  and  a  bicycle  ride  thru  these villages hurtling you  back  to  an  era  of yesteryears ..Ninhbinh from  Hanoi is  a  gem  in  the  itinerary  and  Sinh Travel  lady had arranged  the  trip  perfectly  ....late evening  arrival  to  Hanoi and  early  morn  dep for  Halong Bay  area had  to  be  consummated  and  truly  Elegant Suites with  its  plush interiors  gave  us enough  time  to  cool  our  heels  and  laze  reminiscing  what  we had  achieved  so  far  ....!!

Halong Bay  and  Alina Cruise  with  breath   taking  Limestone  formations on the sea slithered  by as  the  day  long  cruise took  us  from point  to  point  of  interest  ,  kayaking  , swimming  , on board  sumptuous  lunch  , cave  visits  and  TiTop island  tour 

What best cud  it be to depart Hanoi by VNR :Vietnam national railways : reunification rail  route to  experience  the  Highlands  &  Coast  all  at  one  go,  side  by  side  such  is the  disposition of  the  Country  , Highlands , paddy  fields  ,  coast ,all  side  by  side  as  the  train  wud  move  on  a  MetreGauge & the  train  wud  sway just  like  the  MG  trains  of India  of  yesteryears  ...

As  Ninh  Binh  , Halong Bay  were  tough itineraries  booked 4  berth  AC  compartment for  a  day  long  Journey  to  Hue : North Central Vietnam  ,  the  Imperial  capital   700  km  away ..

the late evening arrival  again  at Hue Rly stn quickly ushered  out  by  Samset Manor  Penthouse driver where  we  were lodged  for  two  nites ...Hue appeared  laid  back  ,  comparitively  sparse fewer  highrises  as compared  to Hanoi  , an  Imperial  city of Grandeur ....in fact  the  last  dynasty   flourished  here  : Ngyuen Dynasty  to  be specific  with  their  iconic  structures  and  lay out of  the  Citadel  ,  the  Hue Imperial  city ,  Thien Mu Pagoda  , the  perfume  river  royal  tombs  , Khai  Dinh  Tomb  &  Tu  Duc  Tomb  Unesco  Heritage  scattered & dotted with history makes HUE a must  visit ....the Tu Duc campus where Emperor used  to  use it as a getaway  far from  the Citadel area is one of quietitude and pure poetry...still in  its pristine beauty of gardens , terraces , lakes , secluded , with the aroma of incense rife  in  the air an altogether ethereal place  for  the  Emperor  to  retire ....The orient in full bloom so is  the lotus & lotus ponds ubiquitous ...

The Citadel Of Hue represents  the  seat of the Last Vietnamese dynasty  the Ngyuen ...a sprawling campus influenced by Paris with a Palace of Versaille look alike palace :the Governmental  seat ...its one huge complex , reminding  me of the Forbidden City Beijing which we had visited in 2018.....Bu ddhism and traces of Hinduism influenced  the  region and its  people .....Citadel was tough itinerary as its huge but Doel the bird flew in its corridors & labyrinths with  me  in tow ....her enthusiasm is infectious , a bundle of energy & curiosity...!!.....Shiv Shakthi is an Indian restaurant here & our tired legs found a suitable  refuge in  the Lunch hrs ....

Samset Manor provided us a penthouse , the city glowed underneath , girdled  by  hills,  Hue the Imperial city , as we braced for  an interesting  journey to Danang & Hoi An down further South thru  the Hai van pass , picturesque rail route from Hue to Danang city our  nxt  destination ....replete with tunnels  with glimpses of the sea , beaches  , cliffs the MetreGauge Rail route is 3hr long pure delight as we swayed and sometimes inched  our way uphill to Danang city.....dumping  our  luggages in  Nomad stay  a transit  home  we headed towards  THE CITY which had great shoreline , beautiful hotels overlooking the beach , and off we proceeded to Hoi An the traditional laid  back  in  time  The  Lantern City , the Coconut boat  ride on  the idyllic  Thu bon River@  Bay Mau Coconut Forest (Cam Thanh Village)Hoi An's famous coconut boat (basket boat) tours in a Huge sprawling Mangrove labyrinth & is located in the estuary where the Thu Bon River intersects with the De Vong (Co Co) River and the Cua Dai River..The Boatmen  wud  perform antics with their Bamboo and palm leaves of a round boat much like the Boats in Tunghabhadra Hampi ...the coconuts are unique growing in the mangroves ...the  ride  to Hoi An post this  enroute  enriching  experience  &  we are  back  in  19 th century setting  of  quaint colorful small residences  , shops & Lanterns adorning  them and  their  Town ... its a no entry for  this particular  street  for vehicles as we stroll  down  its  path , French Colonial structures & sweet Coconut  water  to savour amidst  the unrelenting  Tropical June Sun !!!....Ganesha was the perfect rest point  for  us as the restaurant provided us  in Hoi An the perfect Desi meal  we were looking  for ....as we bade byes the nxt day  the  sea farers since childhood Arnav  , Doel  with  me hurtled  down again  by  the Night train   sleeping  comfortably  for Nha Trang a sea side Coastal town of beauty ...Muong Thanh was our apartment 31 st floor overlooking  the bay  and a popular  beach with activities of Kayaking , snorkelling  ....but definitely  the City limits  highlights was the Cham  dynasty  Temple of Vietnams  Hindu  past  King SatyaVarman  &  HariVarman , the Po Nagar temple is Bhagvathi depicted   : Thien   Y Thanh   Mau  in Vietnamese is  the Goddess ....Mukhalingas ...Shivalingas  adorning  the well restored  Temple  of 8th Century  AD !!!!...The  French Colonial  past  well  established   in   Nha  Trang Cathedral !!.....The Yasoda Restaurant served  hot  Curries and we were  pleasantly surprised...Hurtling  down  further  south  on  the  Reunification  MG  track  our  nxt  destination  was  Saigon : Ho Chi Minh City ....The Mekong delta 

It had  to  end  up  here  as  the War remnant Museum  told  us all  of  the  sixties  &  Seventies  ...rang  familiar  bell  of  childhood  , an  avid reader  of  Kolkata  dailies ,  revisited  ...!!!...Glad  the  fmly came  here  as  history  is  indelible  ....Wht a turnaround  for  the  Nation now  :  The  South East Asian Tiger..... a  thriving lively  city  with  the  last  minute  shopping  in  Ben Thanh Mkt  before  our  late Eve departure for  Mumbai  ....!!!

Battered & Tattered : as rages the war

 Its usual salvaging , from  the  scourge  of  diseases & accidents , which is an imprint of a  Lost Confidence well writ , only  to  see health bounce  back  flying

  again  to  dizzy  heights  ,   the  recent  skirmishes forgotten   ....as its  per  chance  the  phenomena , as its  not  in  control  ,  unpredictable  as  a Disease &  a Traumatic  Accident will  unfold ...but  ,  the  unecessary  spillage  of  blood is  the  unkindest  cut  of all , as Life  is valuable , a  celebration  on a  stage  of  kind  Mother  earth  ever  sustaining  the  population ... As  War  batters  &  tatters  unecessarily blood  is  spilled ...the hammering  unabated  of  decimation  &  Obliteration...We  are  our  own enemies  

The Clinical tear….

The Indian Ocean Diary

Rojnamcha 

The early morning train …

The regular departure, though innocuous as it might appear was far from truth as the heart was torn apart as you bade farewell to your own….tru the lump in the throat , as the formative years rolled…the vacation over now , the morning train awaiting departure …such was the strain , that you are overwhelmed and an inertia supreme: a strenuous effort….The biggest stumbling block was Ma : the epitome of entwinement: her frail frame hard to let go…

Nevertheless, the brave heart trudged on , the thoughts shattered by the thunderous Diesel Loco with its 21 bogie load as it appeared on the horizon…

The monster of a train as familiar reliefs of the small town slithered passed as it diligently tore apart the comfort zone…

As the trip to the new session of the school culminated ,one cannot fathom the sea of change just a diurnal variation…

Took time …. the fledgling roots still raw from an uproot , slowly finding its ground of sustenance , as fellow comrades mingle, a newer zone of self realization, a goal for self development, far away from the safe haven, not very old but fresh in memory…

Time is the currency, as the school hostel years rolled on , the cut out of an agenda of self awareness, self assertion and ultimately Self confidence….

As I fly back home from the Sunny clime … there will be my own family waiting….there will be quality time ..a short visit …a week…but enveloped in hope, bonhomie, … only to be torn apart as you part again from your kith and kin ….flying into the Sunny clime , the crossing over the Laccadive sea : a ritual…. this time it’s not a Diesel locomotive but a jet plane clinically executing the tear…….

As Constant as the Northern Star ....

 ...The  Sun  warming  up ,  the transition  evident : seasonal outbreaks,

 the  Holy month sets in : as the  Faithful Submits ...

...The Cobbled  streets  ,  the  beaten  track , the  long stretches : time  for  being  meaningful to  a  purpose  of an  existence ,of  a  much  needed  service  here  ....

Day  in  &  day  out  the touch & reach , a  heart    , sick  perhaps  the  rhythm  , loaded  perhaps  the pain  , tensed  perhaps  the  outcome  ....a  flicker  of  hope  , a  helping  hand , a  rustic  service ,  a remote  setting,  donning  the garb  of  being  Omniscient  ,  Omnipotent as  thr  r  no alternatives  in  stark remoteness ....

The insurmountable  deep  blue ,  the rain  soaked  palms , a direct  connect  with  quietude , a  time  to  fathom ur bearings , as u dive down deep, a rainbow of  a shoal, out  of their natural habitat in the Corals ...

As  constant  the Northern star ...veritable  ,  unspoilt the Archipelago  ....!!!!

The parting Repertoire ...

 Have  to  part  now , the year  drawing  to a close , though  its  business  as  usual , as  breckneck the  speed  that  was  in  the  initial  mnths  , just as  same  as  the year  end...but Time  flies as  a quicksand  shift, deluging us with hordes of events  the  year  offered  ...Humility....  tht  Good Lord gave  me  the  strength  for a much needed  Service  here , season  after season ,  a  steady  flow  , a  steady  accrual  of Good  wishes , Blessings   & Solace  ...!!!....an  Old table  , an  old Chair , a  much  jaded  flooring withstanding  the ravages of  time  :  the Service  rendered , a   happiness  elicited  ,  a  hope  generated  , &  Life's Flow unabated  ...!!!   Pure  , Holy  ,  Hallowed as   the Soul bereft  of  Gloss  or  external  paint  ,  the  Jaded  floor  , a  mute testimony  , the footfalls  unabated  ....!!!...The  flt  back  home  as Immigration  is exited is a severance  akin to  tht  of  the  Umbilical  cord  ...U belong  whr U  serve  ...!!!....U  belong  whr  Ur  needed ...The   many  seasons  of  "Hulanghu  &   Iruvai " :  Monsoon  &  retreating  Monsoon , generating  tht  sprightly  gait  as  ur  drenched , of  being  a  part  of  the  Blessed system !!!! 

....Close to the Earth , even Closer to the Heart ....!!

The Zipline carrying  Arnav  first  followed  by  me  over  the Tegallalang rice terrace  enthused  us  into  more  daring  River  rafting  amidst  rain in  an 11 km stretch  in Ayum River  with sharp currents  ,  eddies     and  rapids  ,  as  we  negotiated  with  both Archana & Doel  pedalling    upfront  and  both  of  us  behind :  the river  flowing sharply  in  the gorge  dotted  with waterfalls ...the  tropical  jungle bordering the  gorge  :  rife  with  high pitched sounds  of    insect cicadas    : a  crescendo  first then decrescendo : all  in  unison ...the  remoteness complete  with  overcast  conditions  & a   steady  drizzle  adding   to  the  thrill  ,  as  we  hurtled  downstream  the  current  even  stronger  ...8'S  latitude  Lesser  Sunda  Archipelago  is  a  gem  of  Indonesia .... the  Pacific ring  of  fire ...the Volcanoes  and  its Lava  fields  of  Mt Batur ....the  fertile  volcanic  landscapes  with  Dragon fruits  ubiquitous &  so is  the aroma of Durian fruit ...the  vulcanic  ash  ,  the  hot  water  Geyser  from the  underground  a  soothing  balm .....the  rains  greeted  us  copiously  as the Jeep  snaked  its  way up  hill the  vulcanic  landscape ...as we inhaled  the  cool  moist  ,  breeze , partially drenched  ,  the  Huge  water  body  of  the Lake  visible  downhill now , as  the UNESCO GEO  Site welcomed us  : a  Lava  field , : mute testimony  of a massive eruption of yesteryears , the  Sunset  point  at  our feet  ....atop  Mt  Batur ....

By  default  we  reached  here  as a stopgap arrangement  in  lieu of Swiss Alps  first &  Drakensberg Ranges  of SA both  of  which  eluded  us  for  delayed  visa  approvals &  had  to  be  kept on  hold   ...August  Sept Zurich  Interlaken sector, followed  by  the fabled Jungfrau region in  the Swiss Alps  with Matterhorn peak  high  on agenda , to  be followed  for  a finale  to St Moritz  , in as  much  the  Villa booking  in Sarnen near Lucerne went abegging ...Let  down  but  not  to be  rundown  !! the RSA  trip finalised with The  Garden & Panorama Routes high on agenda , but Lo ! and behold gets scuttled  due  to  inordinate delay  in  Evisa  approval  which landed  in  the  Inbox on the Day  of Departure !!  , a near impossible  proposition and  further  heart  break ...

Its  often  my experience  , that  unplanned , unscheduled  trips  materialize , and  Indonesia just fitted  into  the  bill with VOA ....!!! : the 12  hr  trip  to  the  Sunda archipelago  from  Mumbai &  Lush green  raw  tropical color  embalmed  us  in  a manner  as rapid  mist  wud  cover u  on a fine  winter  morning in North India ...!!!  

Riding the ATV  bike circuit in the  dense  Jungles with Arnav  in the pillion &  a stellar  performance by Archana  with  Doel in tow  ...!!!...the Circuit was tough  as  the terrain was  rough  with  impediments  strewn as  routine  , the  post  activity Lunch provided  was delicious & we  headed even  deeper & down the multiple Waterfalls  , roaring  &  thundering  under  a  thick canopy of  Tropical lush  ...

This  is  one  place  raw  Nature  is  untouched ; the  Insect  Sound bytes  of  a  crescendo  ubiquitous  ,  a  remoteness  so  much  cherished  far  away  from  the  madding  crowds  of  a  Megapolis  ...!!!

The  Damara  ,  Jonsu &  Emily  Villa  stays  were  fabulous  with entire  villas  to  ourselves  with  a pool  to  relax  after  the days Jaunt , The Grab App  Home delivery a smooth  affair  as  we felt  home  away  from  home  ...

The Moss  laden Ganesha  and  many a  motif in  the  thick  jungles  of  a Monkey Forest , straight  out  of  an Indiana Jones thriller , as we found civilizations  strewn every  nook and corner 

...in  that way  Every  home  in  this  part of  the Archipelago  had  a family Temple first at  the entrance with regular  offerings to  the  deities 

Sea  can't  be far  away  from  us  as we  rode  up  the  cliffs  ,  the breath  taking  Bays with  quaint coffee shops  &  viewing  deck settled  us in  familiar  settings  and  the  sea  activities  including  Paragliding was  the  Icing  on  the Cake  ....!!!! 

A Sea & Lord Hanuman in between .....

 Shubho NaboBorsho greetings  to  all !!!

There  is  festivity  in  the  air  ...the  brisk  walk  back to home  post  Clinic tells it all... there is  definitely a sprightly  gait now negotiating  the  puddles like a striker  with  the  ball , a heart loaded  with  expectancy :  of  a barrage  of  well wishers  wishing : a spl day  in  the  Bongo calendar : Pohela Boishakh :  The Bangla  New  yr ....

...the peace shattered   in  the  wee  hrs  as  the cell  phone   is flooded  with  msgs  from  the  fish  vendor of IIT  Mkt @ Powai Mumbai , the  Choicest Bengali  fishes  are  available ...definitely  for the occasion !!

Alas, the Sea & Lord Hanuman straddling in ur path ....Tuesday  is Lord Hanuman  Day, strictly  Vegetarian will  be  the fare, & the Sea separating the Isles & the Indian Mainland ...

Certain things r diligently  followed since childhood ,part of  ur  upbringing ...."Tuesday"..... to name a  few 

The Customary obeisance to elders in  the  New  year , the fun filled  get togethers & a plethora of dishes from Ma's kitchen laced  with her indefatiguable labour  & Luv....!!!

Not  to  forget  the  rendition  of  Bangla poems  & Rabindra Sangeeth  were the major highlights  of  the  New  year ....!!!